Imagine walking through the sacred sanctuary of Epidaurus, where pilgrims sought healing from Asclepius, the god of medicine. Now, imagine seeing it through the eyes of Pausanias, a 2nd-century CE Greek traveler whose detailed accounts of Greece’s most important sites provide us with one of the best surviving descriptions of the ancient world.
In his great work, Description of Greece, Pausanias documented the architecture, rituals, and legendary status of Epidaurus, offering us a glimpse into how this sanctuary functioned at the height of its power. His writings allow modern readers to experience the sanctuary’s temples, sacred fountains, and the rituals performed by those seeking divine healing.
But what exactly did Pausanias record about Epidaurus? How does his account compare to what modern archaeologists have uncovered? And what can we learn from his observations about the spiritual and medical significance of this ancient healing center?
Pausanias’ journey to Epidaurus is recorded in Description of Greece (Book II, Chapters 26–29). His meticulous descriptions of the site’s buildings and customs provide us with invaluable information about how the sanctuary was structured and how it functioned as one of the most important healing centers of the ancient world.
Upon arriving at the Asclepieion, Pausanias described the serene and sacred atmosphere, noting the impressive layout of the sanctuary. He observed the pilgrims who traveled from across Greece and beyond, coming in search of healing through divine intervention and medical treatment. His writings emphasize the great respect and devotion that worshippers held for Asclepius and his sacred domain.
One of the first structures Pausanias described was the grand Temple of Asclepius, the heart of the sanctuary. Built in the 4th century BCE, this Doric-style temple housed the cult statue of the god, an awe-inspiring chryselephantine (gold and ivory) sculpture crafted by Thrasymedes of Paros.
According to Pausanias, the statue depicted Asclepius seated on a throne, holding a staff entwined with a serpent, a symbol that remains associated with medicine to this day. At his feet lay a sacred dog, believed to have healing powers. The temple itself was adorned with elaborate decorations, including depictions of healing myths and votive offerings left by grateful patients.
Pausanias marveled at the temple’s divine presence, noting that its architecture and artwork reinforced Asclepius’ power and benevolence as a healer.
Another sacred space that captured Pausanias’ attention was the Abaton, the enclosed dormitory where patients slept in hopes of divine healing. This practice, known as enkoimesis (incubation sleep), involved patients spending the night in the sanctuary, awaiting a vision from Asclepius, who would either heal them in their sleep or provide guidance on their treatment.
Pausanias noted the inscribed stone tablets (iamata) placed within the sanctuary, which recorded testimonies of miraculous cures. These inscriptions detailed how Asclepius had cured blindness, paralysis, and even brought people back from near death. The presence of these records showed that faith in the god’s healing powers was widespread and deeply ingrained in Greek society.
One of the most enigmatic structures Pausanias described was the Tholos, a circular marble building of extraordinary beauty. Though even in his time the exact purpose of the Tholos was unclear, he speculated that it was a sacred space used for rituals or healing ceremonies.
Beneath the Tholos, Pausanias noted the existence of an underground labyrinth-like structure, leading some scholars to believe it was used for mystical rites, dream incubation, or symbolic journeys into the underworld. While its exact function remains a mystery, Pausanias’ account provides one of the earliest written records of this intriguing architectural feature.
In addition to its religious and medical significance, the sanctuary of Epidaurus was also a center for physical training and athletic competitions. Pausanias described the stadium, where games were held in honor of Asclepius. These included footraces, wrestling, and other events that reinforced the Greek belief that physical fitness was essential to overall well-being.
The gymnasium, another structure Pausanias admired, served as a place where young men trained in athletics, exercise, and martial skills. He noted that many patients were encouraged to engage in light physical activity as part of their healing process, aligning with the sanctuary’s holistic approach to medicine.
Pausanias’ writings not only recorded the architecture of Epidaurus but also its religious customs and sacred relics. He described the offerings left by healed patients, ranging from sculpted depictions of body parts that had been cured to elaborate statues and gold ornaments dedicated to Asclepius.
Among the many objects that fascinated him, he mentioned:
His account helps us understand the deep spiritual atmosphere of the sanctuary, where medicine, faith, and divine intervention coexisted in harmony.
Pausanias also described the magnificent Theater of Epidaurus, one of the best-preserved theaters of antiquity. He noted its extraordinary symmetry and unmatched acoustics, which allowed even the softest whisper to be heard in the highest rows.
He recognized that the theater played a role in healing, as drama was considered a form of therapy that could evoke catharsis and emotional balance. His admiration for the structure reflects how Greek medicine was deeply intertwined with art, music, and philosophy.
Many of Pausanias’ descriptions have been confirmed by archaeological discoveries. Excavations have revealed:
Pausanias’ work remains a vital historical source, allowing archaeologists to reconstruct the sanctuary’s layout and rituals with remarkable accuracy.
Pausanias’ account of Epidaurus provides us with a vivid snapshot of one of the most important healing centers of antiquity. His descriptions allow modern readers to step back in time and experience the temples, sacred fountains, and rituals of a sanctuary devoted to divine medicine.
His writings serve as both a travel guide and a historical record, helping us understand the spiritual and medical traditions that defined Greek healing practices. Thanks to his observations, we can still appreciate the grandeur of Epidaurus today, nearly 2,000 years later.
